The fashion elite finally have a chance to catch up on sleep now Paris Fashion Week is over. With shows in Milan, New York and London taking place before Paris, the month-long tour is something a voyage into the most innovative and intriguing trends that will be trickling down into Aussie stores in the next few months.
To prepare for what's to come, beauty-wise, in the chilly months, BD explores the hair and make-up trends that showed up on the runways in Europe and NY for the Fall/Winter 15 shows:
Hair
Vivienne Westwood RED LABEL by TONI&GUY - London
Grande dame of the punk movement, Vivienne Westwood once again turned to TONI&GUY to complement her latest collection for RED LABEL. For the sixth season running, the TONI&GUY team took creative control of models’ hair, led by the creative vision of global hair ambassador Mark Hampton. In keeping with the avant-garde theme of Westwood’s garments, Hampton's hair looks involved plenty of volume and texture (as well as a few rather geometric shapes) with the use of the label’s Casual, Glamour, Creative and Classic hair care ranges.
Sophia Webster by TONI&GUY - London
TONI&GUY also led the charge for fellow Brit Sophia Webster’s latest footwear and accessories collection. The eclectic designer created an alternate universe for her show - a ‘Piccadilly Circus circus’ of sorts. Models were given blunt-cut bobs, complete with sharp fringes and texture achieved with the use of dry shampoo. Hampton explained the style: "taking inspiration from the avant-garde Bauhaus movement of the ‘70s and the Triadic ballet, this season’s Sophia Webster look reinvents traditional textured styles with blunt ends and a dramatic shape that puts a new spin on A/W hair.”
Temperley by Moroccanoil - London
It-girl favourite, Temperley, is renowned for its ethereal interpretation of London style, and its A/W 15 collection was no exception. The bohemian collection was defined by elongated hems and a lot of layering. The nomadic designs were enhanced by effortless hair, courtesy of global Moroccanoil ambassador Antonio Corral Calero. To add a little edge to the opulence of the clothes, hair was kept intentionally un-fussed with volumising products and sleek oils. As Calero said, “We wanted to create a winter look of simplicity that takes the hair, and products used, right back to the basics.”
Just Cavalli by Moroccanoil - Milan
In-demand hair stylist James Pecis was responsible for the wet-look paraded at Just Cavalli. At its core, the look was about 'no rules', but an ample amount of product was applied to hair during and after a very relaxed drying process. The wild, wet and windy result suited the richly-hued creations of Cavalli’s winter presentation. Pecis explains the logic behind his hair design: “The Just Cavalli Girl this season is a wanderlust traveller and leader. She knows no boundaries and has a fearlessly strong look. She’s also a little twisted and mysterious, which makes her intriguing and sensual.”
Issey Miyake by Wella Professionals - Paris
Issey Miyake’ sent models down the catwalk with crimped hair, throwing back to the 80s. Wella Professionals global creative Eugene Souleiman was responsible for the twist on the big and bold hair technique, which he credits as a desire to create an “explosion of texture” on the back of the head. With no brief, Souleiman was free to push the boundaries. He said: “We first experimented with crimping last season, which forced me to rethink an old technique, shaking off the 80s connotations and finding new ways to make the effect look beautiful and tasteful.”
Hérve Léger by TRESemmé - Paris
A modern interpretation of the classic French twist was put on display at Hérve Léger. Designed by hairstylist Orlando Pita for TRESemmé, the look involved a chignon and ponytail combination. He explained the style as follows: “For Hervé Léger’s show, we wanted there to be a toughness to the hair but in a way that still felt quite natural and easy for our girl to wear away from the runway. We’ve played with a simple update on the classic low pony that leaves her with a sexy twist down to the nape of her neck. This is the look for when you need your exit from the party to make a bold statement!” Lubov Azaria of Hervé Léger said the models' locks were purposely architectural: “This season, the Hervé Léger collection was inspired by our travels to Barcelona and the amazing architecture of Gaudi’s La Sagrada Familia. We wanted the hair to mimic the strong lines and prints in the collection so that the world knows our girl means business!”
Make-up
Giorgio Armani by Giorgio Armani Beauty - Milan
For Armani’s Milan show, make-up artist Linda Cantello was inspired by the idea of a modern youthful beauty. Her interpretation of “bella ragazza” were flushed cheeks and glowing skin, with a barely-there smoky eye, highlighted by a palette of peach, apricot and rose. Cantello explains of the look that she wanted to emulate “a beautiful girl with an apricot glow, defined eyes and coral lips. The quintessential Italian beauty.”
Diane Von Furstenberg by Max Factor - New York
Revered make-up artist Pat McGrath was behind the strong make-up look at Diane Von Furstenberg, in her role as Max Factor global creative design director. Seduction was key to the smoky eye look, which oozed plenty of sex appeal. A translucent nude base created a clean canvas for a glamorous charcoal-tone to the eyes. As McGrath explains, “Diane’s theme of seduction sparked ideas of intense, diffused smoky eyes framed with dark, voluptuous lashes; bringing to life a real sense of feminine power, mystery and deep allure.”This mantra was confirmed by Furstenberg herself: “It is all about seduction. By day she commands her world, by night she inspires fantasy."
SUNO by Maybelline New York - New York
Inspired by the painting styles of Matisse and Rastafari, make-up artist Alice Lane created bold, graphic eye looks for the SUNO show. To align with the artistic patterns of the collection, Lane went for a modern interpretation of the cat eye paired with a sleek nude base and natural, brushed brows. To exaggerate the eyes (like a painting), Master Graphic Eye Liner was applied in a short dash from the end of the lash line out, forming a rectangular shape around the eye’s edge.
DKNY by Maybelline New York - New York
Graphic was the name of the game for make-up artist Yadim at DKNY. Embracing the abstract graphic print featured in the collection, Yadim created a striking eye look, using Eye Studio Master graphic to draw an abstract shape around the eye that didn’t connect to the inner corner. A nude eyeliner then filled in the eye, while Maybelline Baby Lips Lip Balm was used to add sheen. To highlight the main feature of the eyes, the rest of the base was kept natural with the use of light foundation and subtle highlighting of the cheeks and t-zone.
Nails
The Blonds by CND - New York
Known for its theatrical designs, The Blonds is a brand favoured by pop stars, including the likes of Katy Perry and Ke$ha. With a 'more is more' mantra, the design duo’s looks were typically elaborate, with corsetry, diamantes and bucketloads of sequins featuring heavily. CND 's nail designs fit in with the design aesthetic. Nails were tailored to the models' individual outfit, using acrylic extensions, glitter, sequins, charms and gold accents.
Wes Gordon by Essie - New York
Wes Gordon’s clothing is classic bar modern, and his latest collection reflected his preference for minimalism. Charcoal-striped dresses, wool skirts and winter florals were accompanied by sleek nails created by the team at Essie. Shades of Smokin’ Hot, Matte About You and Sexy Divide were used to create a matte eggplant nail, accessorised by a shiny purple rectangular strip down its centre.
Alexis Mabille by Essie - Paris
Essie created an individual look to complement the sporty nature of the looks paraded throughout the Alexis Mabille show. The nails mimicked the bold, graphic ensembles. After being buffed, nails were painted in the pink shade of limo-scene. Nail art was then incorporated with a crisp black triangle in the shade of licorice painted on top, making the nails a true accessory.
Charlotte Ronson by OPI - New York
Young, fun street style is what designer Charlotte Ronson is notorious for - and this was seen on the models' digits. OPI's lead nail artist, Miss Pop, and her team of technicians debuted a half metallic, half matte dark purple nail look. A funky twist on the traditional dark nail, the designs perfectly suited the cropped sweaters and layered velvets of Ronson’s collection.
