“Love the skin you’re in” is a phrase that, up until now, was more likely to be bandied about by self-love crusaders rather than the beauty industry. Thanks to advancing technologies and a shift in attitude, it’s the latest mantra to be embraced by the latter’s movers and shakers. The beauty world is moving away from elaborate cover-ups and cosmetic injections and into the skincare sector, focusing on improving the condition of the face itself.
Skincare is now the primary focus for the beauty industry, with a recent study by Euromonitor confirming the sector is the biggest contributor to absolute growth, making up a quarter of beauty’s total annual revenue. This number is expected to climb, with skincare predicted to claim one-third of total sales within the beauty category by 2019.
This trend was evident on the catwalks of MBFWA, where many of the looks focused on radiant natural skin rather than expertly applied foundation. senior vice president of make-up artistry Gordon Espinet commented that having a beautiful canvas has taken centre stage when it comes to make-up.
In response to this growing customer demand, skincare-focused companies have upped the ante on what they can offer customers. BD spoke to a handful of experts from the industry about what this shift means for skincare in 2015.
Put the knife away
The all-natural look no longer simply relates to the ingredients used in products, but also consumers’ disinterest in going under the knife. More consumers are relying on sophisticated skincare over cosmetic surgery. This is the result of brands investing time and money into improving existing products, as well as on creating new formulas that are yielding noticeable results without plastic surgery. People are experiencing the transformative results typically associated with surgery from mainstream skincare - without the pain and cost of invasive procedures.
According to data released by the British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons early this year, cosmetic surgery is on the decline. Popularity has fallen nine per cent since 2013 in the UK, with the rest of the world expected to follow. Vicki Engsall of has picked up on this, saying: “The natural, healthy skin look seems to be becoming more sought after, rather than the surgical procedure route.”
Skin Inc’s creator Sabrina Tan says that while “consumers are [continuing to look] for anti-ageing solutions, brands are educating consumers that prevention is key to nip the problem at its root”. The unwavering interest in anti-ageing does mean non-invasive surgery (such as Botox) remains popular. But director of Oxygen Skincare Alana Riley believes this has led beauty brands to re-evaluate their anti-ageing offerings. “Many brands are now including serums and skin-tightening creams to their ranges as the use of Botox is gathering momentum. Skincare companies are responding to this and creating products to mimic the Botox effect without the need to actually go for the needle,” she explains.
Embrace the oil slick
Oils have recently taken the beauty world by storm, with every major women’s publication far and wide touting the benefits of its use in a daily skincare regime. Their popularity can be attributed to their intensely hydrating properties and ability to absorb into the skin’s surface better than standard moisturisers. Face oils are particularly effective in treating ageing skin - from your late 30s, the skin’s natural oils decrease, causing wrinkles to appear deeper.
Engsall predicts consumers will soon exhibit a preference for oils over cream moisturisers. “Natural oils are becoming very popular for their benefits to skin health and their multi-tasking benefits,” she says. brand manager ANZ Paul Freeman agrees, saying serums will surge in a similar way in 2015. He says: “Serums are still on the rise, with many consumers favouring serums over more traditional creams. We will see more brands attempt to come out with effective [variations] in 2015.”
Go au naturale
Just as there is growing interest in what we are putting into our bodies, there is heightened awareness about what’s going on to the skin’s surface. Tan calls it “a back-to-basics” approach that incorporates “natural skincare ingredients with newly discovered skincare benefits”. Riley believes “there are many different non-traditional botanical ingredients being used for skincare these days [as a result of] awareness of the chemical world we live in”.
For Engsall, skincare is fast embracing natural ingredients. She says there has already been a huge shift in customer preference: “There are so many new developments and innovations in the natural skincare industry. Five years ago, natural ingredients were very limited. Now there are 100 per cent natural preservatives and natural active ingredients with proven results to fight wrinkles, pigmentation and even face lifts.”
Director of Green Living Cosmetics Tamara Eacott claims this has led to a complete re-evaluation of the ingredients used within skincare, as well as an interest in using less fillers and petrochemical-derived preservatives. Freeman agrees, elaborating that consumers are now “skeptical of long ingredient lists full of preservatives and chemicals that they’re not familiar with [favouring] products that contain less preservatives, colours and fragrances”.
Brands are also utilising ‘superfoods’ in skincare. Eacott says: “These superfood ingredients have high anti-oxidant properties that are great for skin health, anti-ageing and glowing skin. Some of the newest ingredients are kale, charcoal and arctic berries. The technology of these ingredients is providing a more targeted approach using natural ingredients that perform the same as traditional cosmeceuticals (without the chemicals)”. Freeman expands on this, saying “there has been a lot of research and innovation into products that use naturally-occurring ingredients and vitamins to provide effective care… that don’t compromise on efficacy.”
Innovative skincare products BD recommends include:
Aapri
ACURE
Aromatherapy Associates
AVON
BABOR
BioElixia
Blackmores Fish Oil 1000mg
Bliss
Dermalogica
Dr. Hauschka
Elemis
Eminence Organics
environ
Gernétic
Human + Kind
Jane Iredale
Jing Qi Shen Skincare
The Jojoba Company
Kerstin Florian
Kosmea
LACURA
Laura Mercier
ModelCo
Medik8
Monoderma
Natio
Natralus
Nourish Naturals Skin Oil
NUXE
Oasis Beauty
Paula’s Choice
People for Plants
Pevonia
Physicians Formula
Purasonic
Quick Fix
RubiFresh
Sanctuary Spa
Sanctum
SK-II
Salon Tan
SkinCeuticalsResveratrol B E
Skinfood
Societé
Styx Naturcosmetic Australia Aloe Vera Soap
Sukin
Synergie Skin
Thalgo
Trishave
Ultraderm
Yes To Carrots
Zk'in
Other innovative brands with skincare offerings:
Arbonne
Aveeno Active Naturals
Eau Thermale Avène
Azclear Action
Benefit
Banana Boat
Bioré
Burt's Bees
Carmex
COVERGIRL
Clarins
DMK
DermaVeen
Dr. LeWinn's
DermAid
Dermalogica
Environ Skincare
Ella Baché
Elucent
Giorgio Armani
Garnier
Invisible Zinc
L'Oréal Paris
Lancôme
LUSH
La Roche-Posay
La Roche-Posay
Manicare
Manicare
mesoestetic
Max Factor
Max Factor
Models Prefer
Maybelline New York
Neutrogena
Palmer's
QV Face
QV Skincare
Revlon
Silic 15
Sisley Paris
SkinCeuticals
SunSense
Swisse
Swisspers®
Weleda
Yves Saint Laurent
