With the number of high-calibre fragrance launches this year, competition on the local perfume market is as fierce as ever. And while it feels like there have been enough fragrance launches in 2012 to put Pepé Le Pew to shame, the exact number of scents launched so far is 873, with plenty more still to come according to Fragrances of the World.
Despite reports of bdBLOG: Fragrances fall down in France, Fragrances of the World says the local market shows a steady growth rate. In fact, fragrance sales make up nine per cent of Australia’s total cosmetic and toiletry sector, which is predicted to be worth $2.5 billion in 2012-13, according to IBISWorld.com.
The report says the fragrance product segment has benefited from a boost in sales due to celebrity culture, which has promoted a growing number of products developed in conjunction with pop stars, models, actors and fashion labels. Angela Shepherd, cosmetic and fragrance category manager for Malouf Pharmacies, reiterates this, saying I am very pleased to report that we are currently up nine per cent on last year’s fragrance sales.”
WOMEN
The year kicked off with a swing towards floral, feminine fragrances, with the launch of , Sheer Beauty, Diesel Loverdose, Nutrimetics Ma Fleur, the Gucci Flora Garden Collection and Kate Moss Lilabelle to name a few.
Fragrance expert Michael Edwards identified solifore fragrances (compositions built around a single dominant floral note) as an emerging trend. Soliflore and soft floral trends are more likely to be a reflection on what is happening in fashion, but are also perhaps a nod to vintage and traditional lifestyling trends in general.”
Of their decision to launch Ma Fleur, Nutrimetics says the brand's fragrance portfolio was missing a classic pure-note floral in the range, so took Mother's Day as an opportunity to complete the collection.
In February, The Body Shop launched , a bold take on its classic White Musk fragrance, to popular acclaim. According to Val Zuban, product manager for The Body Shop, In the month of the launch, it became our best-selling EDT, a fabulous result given the number of iconic fragrances in The Body Shop range. It also succeeded in attracting a younger demographic that the original White Musk fragrance, thus complimenting it rather than cannibalising sales.”
Somewhat surprising success stories include and , with both fragrances performing better than expected. Jimmy Choo really surprised us,” admits Kate Gildea, PR manager at Cosmax. We launched the EDP last year and followed up with the EDT this year. It’s a fragrance that we didn’t really put any media money behind, or much promotional budget into, and it just went amazingly well in store.” Gildea muses that the reasons behind the scent’s success could be the price point, which is in line with US pricing, as well as the packaging and the fruity scent itself.
I think Roberto Cavalli far exceeded all of our expectations – that was a big launch in winter for Coty,” says Myer’s group general manager of cosmetics Liz Webster. It continues to be in our top 20 fragrances; it’s had a super season.”
MEN
One trend identified by several suppliers and retailers was the tendency for designers to release variations of existing fragrances. We’re seeing lots of fragrances that are being released as ‘light’ or ‘fresh’ or ‘intense’ variations of existing popular scents,” affirms Kate Morris, founder of AdoreBeauty.com.au.
This tactic has been especially successful within the men’s fragrance category, with a number of sports fragrances being launched. I think we’ve launched five different sports fragrances across Cosmax’s men’s brands,” points out Gildea. I think they work especially well in the Australian market as they tend to be lighter and fresher, so they work well in our climate. The popularity of those scents has driven more brands to start adopting sports flankers to their classic scents.”
For Cosmax, these launches came in the form of Hugo Boss Bottled Sport, and Issey Miyake L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme Sport Eau de Toilette among others, while Coty unveiled Calvin Klein ckfree blue, a lighter, crisper version of the original 2009 scent. L’Oréal Luxe had success with Acqua Di Gio Essenza and Polo Blue Sport EDT, which Shepherd says have both been strong performers within Malouf.
CELEBRITY
We have definitely seen a resurgence of celebrity fragrances again on the market,” says Coty’s PR and communications manager Anita Providel. It allows fans to ‘enter the world’ of their favourite celebrity.” Justin Bieber, Nicole Richie, Nicki Minaj, Beyonce and Rihanna have all released scents in the past 10 months.
But the celebrity scent that’s silenced them all is , with retailers and distributor Coty all describing it as 2012’s top fragrance. It has been the fragrance on everyone’s lips,” says Shepherd. Everyone has been so anxious for it to arrive and it has most definitely lived up to the hype.”
Webster says Fame is the number-one fragrance in the department store so far this summer season, which commenced August 1. What we’re seeing with Lady Gaga is something we haven’t seen since the Britney Spears and Kylie days … this season, she will deliver dollars that we haven’t seen for probably eight or nine years in celebrity fragrance.”
WHAT’S TO COME?
Despite plethora of new scents we’ve already seen this year, there are still plenty more fragrances to come. This month sees the launch of Gucci Premiere, as well as the unveiling of Shiseido’s 140th anniversary limited edition scent, Zen Secret Bloom EDP. Elizabeth Arden’s sensual take on a classic, Red Door Aura, hits shelves October 28. November will see D&G is relaunching its Pour Femme fragrance, which has been remade and rebottled, plus the highly anticipated launch of . ’s second scent, Wonderstruck Enchanted, is also launching next month, along with Guinot’s Parfum de Vie.
In terms of fragrance notes, Edwards says that while it’s hard to crystal ball gaze too far ahead, he’s looking forward to seeing the gourmand notes become more sophisticate and complex. Prada Candy illustrated this point beautifully and we’re hoping to see others follow suit.”
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Here are some of the fragrance launches covered by beautydirectory so far this year:
- YSL Forever Youth Liberator launch
- Avon's "Take a Bite" Event
- Valentina by Valentino launch
- The Body Shop White Musk Libertine launch
- Crabtree & Evelyn's Evelyn Rose launch
- Ralph Lauren Big Pony Fragrance Collection launch
- Diesel Loverdose launch
- Elizabeth Arden Aura launch
- Taylor Swift Wonderstruck launch
- Jo Malone Wild Bluebell Collection launch
- Giorgio Armani Essenza launch