When a press release arrived in our inbox saying that the popularity surrounding mineral make-up was a result of tremendous marketing campaigns” and that it is filled with formulation problems, inaccurate testimonials and falsehoods” – we decided to investigate whether this product was indeed faddish or whether it is set to stand the strength of time with natural benefits that provide measurable benefits to the skin.
Mineral makeup is one of the best-marketed cosmetic items ever. It’s a fad, and the marketing claims of durability, coverage and maintenance only add to the disappointment from customers all over the world,” says Cosmetics division manager Tommy Parsons. It seems like a bold statement, yet most mineral make-up companies agree the sector has had substantial marketing. However, they disputed the idea that this product is just experiencing its moment in the sun. When I think of the word fad, I think of something that has a short lifespan. If you define a fad in that way, then no, I don’t think mineral make-up is a fad,” says CEO Miranda Bond. Mineral make-up has been around since the 1970s and it’s only recently in the last 10 years that it’s really gained momentum due to QVC television shopping in the US.”
Youngblood national business development manager Lisa Williams agrees with Bond, stating that, while the beauty industry is often driven by trends, mineral makeup is not a fad. I do not believe that we would continue to sell such large quantities and experience so much continued growth as a company if the concept was merely a ‘fad’.” Williams also pointed out that Shiseido was unlikely to have acquired Bare Essentials for $1.7 billion last year if it did not think mineral make-up was here long term.
Although mineral make-up brands believe the product is here to stay, there’s discussion about the viability of some mineral make-up products. cosmetics director and creator Liane Scior revealed that like any ingredient embraced by cosmetic companies, the quality varies depending on how it is formulated, the ingredients it uses and how it is applied. Consumers are looking for natural alternatives and will become as discerning about the mineral make-up formulas as they are about food,” says Scior. I think only the credible, quality brands will remain as clients become more aware of ingredients and how they work.”
Bond supports this view, saying that consumers are becoming increasingly concerned about knowing what’s on an ingredients list. You will get a drop off in sales from what I call the fad brands, which are not the genuine mineral brands, and you will see an increase in sales of companies and brands where they are making genuinely natural cosmetics,” she says.
And it’s the naming of ingredients that can cause confusion for shoppers. Scior and Bond both agree with Parson in that there are mineral make-up brands claiming to be natural, but use chemical ingredients such as bismuth oxychloride and talc within their formulations. Bond revealed that when mainstream chemical cosmetic companies saw mineral make-up sales skyrocket, they decided to bring out their own versions of mineral cosmetics. That’s when they created what I call ‘versions of mineral make-up’, because their versions actually contain a lot of chemicals that you would find in normal chemical make-up.” A consumer study by Choice magazine in 2009 tested 14 mineral foundations and found 10 of the 14 contained bismuth oxychloride. Bismuth oxychloride is manufactured using bismuth – a by-product of lead and copper metal refining and chloride – a compound from chlorine and water. It has a distinct shimmery, pearlescent appearance and its fine white powder texture adheres well to the skin, however, it is not natural and can cause irritation.
Scior pointed out that while the actual minerals themselves are completely natural, mineral make-up products vary between those that have a 100 per cent mineral compilation and those that include chemical ingredients. Williams says that some companies believe that simply putting a few minerals into their product makes it superior. Throw in some iron oxide, some mica, some titanium dioxide, and voila! You have a mineral make-up!,” she jokes. Unfortunately, this is not the case. A true mineral powder foundation has very limited ingredients, usually only four or five. These normally include iron oxide, mica, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.”
founder Jane Iredale revealed that most mineral make-up can be defined by what’s not included in its composition. She pointed out that while most mineral formulas are a simple combination, traditional make-up brands often contain a long list of may also contain” items that include fillers, binders, fragrances, chemical dyes and chemical preservatives. A quality mineral make-up will not contain any of the top three sensitisers in cosmetics: perfume, chemical dyes and chemical preservatives,” says Iredale. Williams agreed, commenting that the benefit of a mineral is that it was the first real make-up to remove a lot of the nasties” that were traditionally found in make-up that irritated the skin.
Parsons article Mineral make-up – a conflict in formulation and marketing is an interesting read for people in the cosmetics industry and it highlights important issues found within the mineral make-up industry, yet a blanket cannot be thrown across the entire field. While mineral make-up may turn out to be a short-term success for some companies, for others it will continue to be developed and hold a place on the shelves for many years to come. My guide to people is to know your ingredients,” says Bond.