2017 was undoubtedly a transformative year for the beauty industry. We learnt that a specific shade of pink was proven to help shift products; that two names often work better than one – think Gigi Hadid x Maybelline and Victoria Beckham x Estee Lauder; that K-beauty continued to go from strength to world-dominating strength; and that non-invasive skin procedures would transform the way an entire generation of women would view a 'makeover'.
In skincare, the one-size-fits-all philosophy became almost entirely redundant, just as the ingredients included in those products were put under the microscope and closely examined. This new way of thinking about beauty and skincare looks set to stay put. To find out how the latter category will develop over the next twelve months, we spoke to some industry experts about what to expect in 2018.
The personalisation progression
While skincare has always been carefully crafted for different skin types, few brands have offered genuinely customisable products. Until now. In an age where technology reigns, it was only a matter of time before tailored beauty products would become more readily available.
"Personalisation will continue to explode in all areas of wellness and skincare, products that are designed for a person’s individual lifestyle as well as skin care needs," says Dermalogica education manager for the International Dermal Institute Emma Hobson.
"The field of ingredient delivery systems will continue to amaze us with new innovations such as carrier mechanisms that have the ability to take a potent ingredient to exactly where it is needed at a particular time…motion-activated delivery technology for example, whereby a motion like sleeping, can activate the release of a fresh dose of essential oils."
Another brand utilising technology to explore personalisation is Rodan + Fields. Chief global officer Lynn Emmolo says, "Providing consumers with a personalised experience has always been at heart of Rodan + Fields. Consumers have a personal relationship with us the moment they interact with our Solution Tool to identify a regimen designed to address their personal skincare needs."
Professional skin treatments will also start to become more bespoke. Dermalogica's new ProSkin30 and ProSkin60 treatments are built on a multi-layered, modular approach where the therapist offers a personalised experience based on the customer's lifestyle and needs.
Brands offering personalised products: Dermalogica; Rodan + Fields; Alpha-H; Say It With Polish; Kiehl's; M.A.C.
Healthy skin from within
In almost complete contrast to the evolution of technology in beauty, there's also a collective shift towards the age-old attitude of embracing beauty from the inside out.
"We are recognising that truly, beauty is cultivated from within. For beautiful hair, skin and nails, and a glowing radiance, it is so much more than the products we use," says Depths of Beauty founder Emmily Banks. "While they can support our outer beauty, inner beauty is cultivated through encompassing wellness trends like sleep, rest, relaxation, fresh air, exercise, a clean, wholesome diet, and doing things that make us feel light and good at a soul level."
Sephora training executive Kristy Gray agrees, attributing a recent change in purchasing attitudes to a more educated consumer who wants to look their best self while preserving and even improving their health.
"Wellness is an extension of the interest in natural ingredients with clients becoming more savvy about where they're sourced and farmed," she says. "Health and fitness are set to meet beauty by the year 2020 but you'll see it happening already with the likes of the Clinique Fit range and Yumi – a brand that stemmed completely from yoga. I think the whole movement is a bit of a revolution," she says.
As for what's next, Banks says that caring for skin will involve deep self care in every facet of our lives.
"Sleep is being taken far more seriously in wellness circles - and is paramount when it comes to looking after our skin, and enabling that youthful glow. A focus on a skin-supporting diet is another important factor - including antioxidant rich foods, collagen and supporting our gut health. There is a real step towards holistic health linked to inner beauty - rather than just diet and exercise, it is all about mind, body and soul."
Beauty meets health brands: Clinique; SkinB5; MitoQ; The Beauty Chef; Beauty Boosters; Vida Glow; Weleda; Swisse; endota spa; Nutrimetics; BioSource; Viviscal; Arbonne; Qsilica; Aveda; Nature's Way.
Stress-busting skincare
Skincare that tackles environmental stresses such as pollution, UV exposure and allergen have been on the market for a few years now and the category is still thriving. Mintel reported in 2016 that one in 10 beauty products launched in Australia carried an anti-pollution claim, and that Asia is racing ahead in terms of innovation in this field. In major international studies, over 50 per cent of women in leading Western countries such as France, Germany, the UK and the US claim they are worried that a more polluted environment is accelerating the ageing process.
Brands are now working on skincare that combats environmental stressors found indoors as well as out – air conditioning, heating and blue light from computer screens to name a few. According to Emmolo, “Dry air, especially in the summer or winter, is proving time and time again to be one of the biggest challenges for healthy skin."
Hobson agrees, and says that Dermalogica's new tailored products and treatments will aid skin functionality when it comes to protecting against harmful environmental factors.
"The one area of concern and of growing interest is blue light emitted by digital screens and how we protect the skin from potential damage…Lastly, we're looking at the field of stress reduction and the effects of stress on the skin then crafting products with ingredients that can target the factors of stress within."
Brands concerned with pollution: Ella Bache; Alpha-H; Synergie Skin; Elizabeth Arden; Eminence Organic Skin Care; Napoleon Perdis; Invisible Zinc; Sukin; Innoxa; Bioelements; Clarins; Bourjois; Estée Lauder; Medik8.