Constant regulatory changes, banned ingredients and a move in trends means that cosmetic developers need to constantly find new ways to create the cosmetics we love.
The two biggest categories that have undergone advancements are eye makeup products and nail polish. For polish, the new ingredient to know is nitrocellulose, and for eye cosmetics it is the development of product for geographical location. Here, BD explains the key ingredients behind both products, and the trends that have driven away other additives.
Nail laquer:
Nitrocellulose
Known as the favourite ingredient for formulators of coloured nail polishes, nitrocellulose is what makes your polish glossy and hard. It is a highly combustible material that is also used in making dynamite, but don’t let that small fact turn you off. Nitrocellulose creates a film that holds together other substances and its excellent adhesive properties makes it indispensable in nail polish. This chemical also allows polish to protect the nail whilst still allowing it to breathe.
Toluene
As Dr Christophe Delas explained to Cosmetics Business: “With pressure from brands, trends and regulatory changes, toluene, which was widely used as a co-solvent in nail enamels, remains now only in a few geographic areas.
This ingredient is still allowed for use in nail polishes, but for safety reasons it was dropped by many brands around the world.”
Toluene was banned for potentially having an effect on your nervous system. Effects can be temporary, such as headaches, dizziness, or unconsciousness. However, incoordination, cognitive impairment, and vision and hearing loss may become permanent with repeated exposure.
Other banned ingredients
Other ingredients that have been shunned alongside toluene are tosylamide and formaldehyde resin.
The reason for the change in ingredients over the years, as cosmetic scientist Delas explains: “Sustainable formulas, ‘ten-free’ claims and vegan trends are always in the back of our researchers’ minds in their daily work.
“Water-based nail polish is also part of this trend, moving from child-oriented products to more adult consumers. The market today is focused on two types of product: peel-off formulations and wash-off products. Long lasting formulations are clearly a gap in the beauty market.”
Eye cosmetics:
Mascara
The market of mascaras today is divided into three different segments: cream mascaras, waterproof mascaras and water-resistant mascaras. Which mascara a consumer may go for, Dellas explains, is “driven by geography,”
“Those living in areas with high humidity will go for waterproof and water-resistant mascaras. Europeans and North Americans may opt for cream mascaras with some local exceptions.”
Similar to nail polish, emerging trends have led cosmetic developers to completely eliminate parabens, formaldehyde releasers or organic halogen compounds.
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