Over 85 per cent of teenagers are afflicted with acne - think blind pimples, whiteheads and blackheads - thanks to the increased sebum production caused by raging hormones. This nasty little problem sees more than 40 per cent of kids have acne or scars from acne that need to be treated by a skincare therapist, dermatologist or doctor,” according to Facial Serums & Activating Mists - Rescue Repair Serum managing director Kay Roby. The good news when it comes to acne is that measures can be taken to prevent or alleviate this infliction. Taking preventative action can help a great deal in assisting adolescents to navigate this period of intense self-seeking and social adjustment with more ease and clearer skins,” says Environ Skincare founder Dr Des Fernandes.
In order to avert skin problems, each year sees more companies delivering innovative new acne-fighting products. Unfortunately, the popularity of products targeting teen skin has also brought with it a negative trend - self-diagnosis. One obvious trend is how much more knowledgeable teens (and their parents) are about the type of products they want to buy. They’ll see a review online, or read about a new ingredient on a blog and think that it’s what they need, although sometimes this isn’t the case as the product may not be suitable for their skin,” says PR and media manager Tess Stolarchuk. But it’s not just the internet that is spreading miscommunication. Unfortunately we have noticed an increase in teenagers buying products based on price, infomercials or the advice of (well intentioned) friends without seeking a professional skin analysis,” says managing director Reika Roberts.
However it’s not all doom and gloom, with a positive trend to arise from this increase in knowledge is the increase of teens turning to teen skin products focusing on natural ingredients. Over the last 12-18 months there has been a definite shift towards using natural ingredients to treat teen skin,” says Stolarchuk. Natio national trainer Linda Riddell agrees, adding, Increasingly, we have noticed that teens are choosing gentler, more natural skincare alternatives to help control excess oil and maintain a healthy moisture balance. Natio has developed a plant-based skincare range to support problem skin, dispelling the myth that acne care must be harsh to be effective.”
Blemished skin is often irritated, with one of the most effective ways of controlling this being to calm it down so that it can return to normal. Products with gentle, minimal ingredients reduce the chance of reaction, restore comfort and help protect the skin from further irritation,” says Eau Thermale Avène. Roby also stresses the importance of gentle products, as it is important to support delicate acneic skin with ingredients that do not inflame the wounds.
Recently, its been azelaic acid, salicylic acid and niacinamide carrying the spotlight for hero ingredients when it comes to teen skin due to their abilities to deeply penetrate with anti-inflammatories, clear blocked pores, and reduce redness and irritation. But while they continue to be a dominant force in the acne industry, there are a new crop of must-know ingredients on the teen skin market. We take a look at the latest ingredients kicking pimples to the curb.
Acnacidol - Acnacidol is a breakthrough active ingredient with remarkable sebum regulating properties,” says Fernandes.
Found in: (+NZ)
Canadian Willowherb - A plant-derived ingredient that acts as a skin cleanser, freshener and soother for irritated areas of the skin. It contains anti-inflammatory properties.
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Cinnamon extract - Cinnamon extract promotes a clear complexion; regulating sebum levels and boosting defences to prevent future breakouts.
Found in: Medik8 Hydr8 beta
Clove oil - A potent antioxidant which helps stop the process of development of acne in its tracks.
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Fruit enzymes - Enzymes naturally found in fruits are ideal for treating oily and congested skins as they are gentle and don’t cause extra irritation on inflammation, which is important when working with angry, blemish-prone skin,” says Stolarchuk.
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Jojoba - Due to its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, jojoba can eliminate acne-causing bacteria while soothing inflamed acne-prone skin. Jojoba is known to unclog pores by naturally pulling impurities from your skin, helping to prevent breakouts. Jojoba can also balance the production of excess oil (sebum) in skin.
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Milk Thistle - A powerful antioxidant known to help defend against environmental damage, while helping to comfort the skin.
Found in: (NZ)
Kava - Kava is a member of the black pepper family and has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory benefits.
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Peppermint Oil - This oil holds powerful anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory properties and is cooling on the skin.
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Pore Away Complex - A precious medicinal resin which comes from the bark of a tree grown on the Greek Island of Chios. This complex has been shown to visibly reduce the appearance of pores and has an anti-comedogenic effect on oily skin, managing any resulting breakouts for clearer looking skin.
Found in: Skin Physics Pore Away Intensive Refining Serum
Pumpkin seed extract - Helps regulate oil secretion.
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Sweet wormwood extract - Sweet wormwood extract found in Osmosis Restore Topical has had remarkable success in calming inflammation and healing acne wounds while supporting skin health,” says Roby.
Found in: Facial Serums & Activating Mists - Rescue Repair Serum
Tamanu oil - Used for thousands of years by Pacific Islanders as a topical skin remedy, tamanu offers the skin natural antibacterial protection and encourages skin cell renewal and anti-inflammatory support.
Found in: Natio
Tea tree - Tea tree helps combat skin problems with its natural cleansing, purifying and antibacterial action.
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Thyme - Thyme has proven antibacterial, antiseptic, and astringent qualities that effectively helps fight breakouts and blemishes.
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Other hard-working teen skin products:
ASAP Clearskin gel (+NZ) (+NZ)
Bread and Butter Skincare Face Cleanser (+NZ) (+NZ)
Dermalogica Clean Start Kit (+NZ)
La Biosthetique Lotion DesincrustanteOil-Free Pink Grapefruit Cleanser (+NZ)Papulex Oil-Free Cream
(+NZ)
What about adult acne?
Unfortunately it’s not just teens that suffer from acne, with as many as 25 per cent of adult men and 50 per cent of adult women afflicted with it. Acne is a significant concern on its own, but when acne meets ageing, skin damage is magnified,” reveals SkinCeuticals. Adult acne brings its own set of age-related concerns, including overactive sebaceous glands resulting in enlarged pores, rough skin texture and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation that can linger long after the blemishes subside.
To help combat adult acne, have developed the Acne Clearing System that works together 24 hours a day to clear skin of existing acne pimples, blackheads and whiteheads, while allowing it to heal from the signs of past acne breakouts. The general consensus within the skincare industry is to treat acne by arming its sufferers with aggressive oil-scavenging products, but this approach can be harmful even on a collagen-rich teenage skin - so the potential side-effects on mature, collagen-depleted skins are considerably magnified,” reveals Stolarchuk.
Ranges good for adult acne include:
emerginC Complexion Control
O Cosmedics Exfoliating Cleanser