Long gone are the days where eco-conscious beauty products were few and far between. Consumers now want products that are intrinsically linked with their principles, which has led to a surge in clean, green and ethical products. But, as the billion dollar industry continues to expand, so too does the complexity and ambiguity around labels. It can be difficult to discern what you think you’re buying vs what you are actually getting, so we ask the experts to help us decode the lingo.
Organic vs. Natural
It seems that just about every brand is hopping on the ‘natural’ or ‘organic’ bandwagon in an effort to capture the new-age consumer. However, the rules and regulations surrounding these terms are not as clear cut as you might think.
Natural and organic make for some pretty alluring labels and it turns out they’re completely unregulated in New Zealand. Any company can print the words on their product, even if they are bursting with synthetic ingredients – a practice referred to as ‘greenwashing’. Signs of greenwashing often include buzzwords or deceptive visual aids, warns Helen Wilkes, Marketing Manager for skincare brand Weleda. “Beware of terms like nature-inspired and pure, as well as illustrations of flowers or leaves on the packaging,” she says. Many brands also state what they are ‘free’ of on the packaging like “no parabens”, which infers they are natural.
So, what do the terms actually mean and how can we avoid buying a fraud? “A truly natural product only uses botanic, mineral or animal by-product materials. Nothing that is man-made should be included,” explains Wilkes. In contrast, an organic product is the same as natural but follows more rigorous and controlled cultivation standards. “At least 90 per cent of the natural ingredients must come from a certified organic environment, where ingredients are grown without the use of pesticides, herbicides and synthetic fertilisers,” she clarifies.
The devil is in the detail when it comes to assessing whether a product is natural or organic. Ingredients are always listed in the fine print from highest to lowest percentage. A general rule of thumb for quickly decrypting is, if there is a bunch of lab born ingredients at the beginning and the only identifiable materials are buried at the bottom, it’s unlikely to be natural.
However, sometimes the scientific name for a natural ingredient can look scary when it actually isn’t. Jennifer Del Bel, International Training Manager for organic skincare brand Moana, recommends looking for products with natural and organic certification logos to be safe. “Independent certification bodies set strict standards when it comes to defining natural and organic. Brands must go through a rigorous accreditation process,” says Del Bel. Brands with an endorsement from BioGro, NATRUE or AsureQuality, are reliable logos to look out for.
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Vegan-Friendly vs. Cruelty Free
Often used interchangeably but not to be confused as the same thing, cruelty-free and vegan friendly are trending terms often found stamped on the front of our favourite beauty products.
In short, cruelty-free means that no animal was harmed or killed in the sourcing and testing of ingredients says Jacob Stanley, Head of Education for MECCA. However, he adds that a cruelty-free product isn’t necessarily vegan as it may still contain animal derivatives such as fats, lanolin or beeswax. On the flipside, a vegan friendly label means that no animal by-product was used, although it doesn’t automatically mean it wasn’t tested on animals – tricky we know! Navigating the loopholes can be a minefield so once again the best guide is to look for affirmation in the certification logos, according to The Body Shop’s Corporate Responsibility Manager Jessie Macneil-Brown. “In order to gain accreditation, brands must adhere to stringent policies and regular auditing, which goes all the way down to the supply chain” he explains. Reputable logos you can trust include The Leaping Bunny, Choose Cruelty Free and PETA Cruelty Free. There are also numerous organisations providing vegan certification.
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New trends on our radar
Oncology Friendly
With over 13 million people diagnosed with cancer each year, there is a growing need for products that cater to the sensitive needs of skin during chemotherapy and radiation. Gentle cleansers, non-irritating shampoos and aluminium free deodorants are on the rise, as well as colour cosmetics that enhance beauty in the safest way possible. “As technology evolves we have grown more aware of the needs of compromised skin. Products can now be endorsed by the internationally recognised Oncology Friendly association,” says Carla Konik, Brand General Manager for Osmosis Skincare.
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Gluten-free beauty
As an increasing number of New Zealanders scan the isles for gluten-free products, it’s only natural that the beauty industry would grasp at the opportunity to cash in. However, new research suggests there may be merit in gluten-free beauty. As skincare and cosmetics are ultimately absorbed into the bloodstream, those who are particularly sensitive to gluten should look for gluten-free alternatives, especially in lipsticks as they’re frequently ingested.
