Just like fashion, technology and TV shows, cosmetic ingredients come and go in trends. These buzzwords” come about when a brand unveils a new innovation, discovers a new extract or patents its own complex to better their formulas, and beauty editors are never short of information when it comes to writing about The Next Big Thing in skincare ingredients.
As consumers are becoming more aware of what they use on their skin, and more ingredient savvy, there is a lot of pressure on skincare companies to adhere to consumer demands and trends,” explains Melinda Tizzone, brand development manager for New Directions Australia, a cosmetic manufacturing company and wholesaler of essential oils, organic and natural ingredients. This is the reason we are seeing so many more ‘natural super ingredients’ emerge in the market.”
Here are the natural and synthetic super ingredients that are making a splash on the beauty scene.
Okuru
Okuru is a natural peptide that has been likened to natural Botox, as it assists in diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Found in West Africa, the Okuru plant has been used by locals for centuries for its high nutritional food value and skin benefits. According to Peter Vranes, CEO and founder of Lapureté, The seeds of the Okuru plant contain a combination of peptides that minimise wrinkles in a similar way to Botox, but are all natural and can be applied topically without the need for invasive injections.” To test this theory, Monash University conducted a study of the plant and through independent trials found that the appearance of wrinkles reduced by up to 39.8 per cent in three weeks.
Immortelle (Hellicrysum plant)
Even though revealed the beauty benefits of the Immortelle flower 10 years ago, new discoveries about its potential as a skincare ingredient are still being uncovered. Known for its anti-inflammatory properties, Immortelle cell extracts have recently been proven to contain powerful active ingredients. L’Occitane has covered this latest innovation with a new patent, utilising it in its new range. Realising the plant’s potential and the huge quantity it needed for the production of the Immortelle collection, L’Occitane launched the world’s first organic and sustainable plantation of Immortelle in Corsica in 2004. Now that’s investment.
MSM (methylsulfonylmethane)
According to Happy Skincare, a user of MSM, this is a naturally occurring mineral form of sulphur, which is vital for cell regeneration. It’s also the fourth most abundant mineral in our bodies. Generally more common in dietary supplements, when used in skincare MSM helps a product penetrate deep into the inner layers of skin, assisting to heal spots, relieve sensitive skin and aid overall skin health.
Totarol
The extract from New Zealand’s giant native Eucalypt Totara tree, Totarol is a potent antimicrobial and antioxidant. In the heartwood of the tree, it protects the wood from decay, but on skin, it protects from damaging oxidative stress and bacteria. Claiming Totarol is three times stronger than vitamin E, and helps neutralise the free radicals linked to skin ageing, Living Nature uses the extract in its Rich Day Cream and Nourishing Night Cream.
Matryxl
Tizzone describes Matryxl as a peptide that may assist with increasing the biosynthesis of collagen-producing genes”. As is often the case, many cosmetic companies have developed and patented their own peptide technology, including Pod Puraceuticals, which uses Matryxl Synthe’6 in its Liquid Erase. This is known as a matrix-mimetic peptide meaning it stimulates six key components of the skin matrix rather than just one, thereby helping to strengthen the skin and fill in wrinkles.
Retinaldehyde
boasts the patented ingredient Retinaldehyde, the strongest form of Vitamin A available over the counter, which works deep within the skin to help restore elasticity and reverse the signs of photo ageing. Research suggests it’s also better absorbed than retinol for anti-ageing benefits. According to Ascent Pharmaceuticals’ (parent company of Avène) national training manager Helen Ghandchi, Retinaldehyde is much more potent than retinol and is converted directly to retinoic acid, which then exerts activity on the DNA. Any retinaldehyde that isn’t required is converted back to retinol, which saves the skin from being left irritated, red and peeling.”
Heptapeptide
Heptapeptide is one of the more popular anti-ageing ingredients,” says Tizzone. It is known to mimic the action of laminin-5, an important molecule present in the dermal-epidermal junction, which is responsible for improving its function.” Tizzone explains that studies have indicated that laminin-5 is necessary for the health and appearance of the skin and is related to preventing skin ageing.
Niacinamide
An oldie but a goodie, scientists continue to discover new benefits of Niacinamide (or vitamin B3 as it’s commonly known). Topical niacinamide improves skin’s moisture barrier, encouraging the natural production of collagen, and strengthens the outer layers of the skin by increasing skin surface renewal. David Khoo, a scientist for Olay says the ingredient gives multiple anti-ageing benefits that work simultaneously to help skin regain a youthful glow. Even after 10 years of research, Olay scientists are still discovering new benefits of niacinamide,” says Khoo. Most recently whilst leveraging genomic analysis, researchers found that niacinamide could decrease inflammatory-response genes, which in turn had a positive impact on skin ageing.”
Syn-Ake
A patented ingredient used by Skinstitut, Syn-Ake (short for synthetic snake venom) works like venom to relax the muscle, resulting in smoother wrinkles and expression lines. Fiona Tuck, managing director of Skinstitut, says the anti-wrinkle active compound is based on the synthetic tripeptide that mimics the effect of a peptide found in the venom of the Temple Viper. This compound imitates the parts of the venom that block the neuromuscular contractions that cause facial muscle tension, thus relaxing the skin surface,” Tuck explains.
Liquid Vitamin C (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate)
This is one of the most effective and popular antioxidants available today,” says Tizzone. It works to assist in protecting against UV-induced cell damage and lipid peroxidation, two of the strongest contributors to the ageing process.” While Vitamin C has been used in cosmetics for a very long time, Tizzone says in the past it’s been a little unstable, however this is a stabilised liquid. It’s also oil-soluble, so it’s easily absorbed into the skin. Liquid Vitamin C is used in to dramatically repair the look and feel of environmentally damaged skin and cosmetically compensate for the visible decline in the skin’s youthful firmness and elasticity,” according to the brand.