Never mind anti-ageing, it turns out adult women are not only warding off fine lines and wrinkles but acne too. It may be synonymous with backpacks and braces but acne is all too common for women well into their twenties and thirties.
The basics
Acne is the leading skin complaint dermatologists observe in New Zealand. It affects almost everyone at some stage in their lives, particularly during adolescence but frequently stretches well into adulthood.
The acne spectrum is vast, varying in scale from mild to severe and distinguishable by the types of pimples present, from sporadic pustular breakouts to recurrent and painful cystic lesions, which require more intensive treatment. However, it extends far beyond physical symptoms, with sufferers usually enduring profound social and psychological distress for years later. Thankfully, effective treatment is available for acne of all severity.
What is acne?
Acne is a common skin disease caused by over-stimulation and inflammation of the pilosebaceus (hair follicles and oil-producing gland). “It often begins during puberty as there is a change in hormone levels, which leads to enlargement and increased activity of the pilosebaceus unit and in turn increased production of sebum (oil),” explains dermatologist Dr Eleni Yiasemides. This oil then clogs pores leading to whiteheads, blackheads and cystic acne – deep lumps and infected pustules.
Teenage vs. adult acne
Feel like your face is having a high school reunion? Don’t worry you’re not alone. In fact, an overwhelming 40 per cent of women will suffer from some form of acne in their adult lives.
So, is there a difference between teenage and adult acne? Location, location, location – while the process of adult acne is essentially the same, it generally pops up in different places to its younger counterpart. “The pattern usually changes between puberty and adulthood, appearing in different areas of the face depending on various organs in the body,” says Marianna Glucina - About Face , founder of the Auckland skin clinic. Glucina adopts an eastern diagnosis believing that where a breakout occurs is a reflection of what’s going on inside - a technique often employed by skin therapists to prescribe a tailored service, known as ‘face mapping’. In teenagers, acne is usually on the forehead and cheeks, while in adults it tends to be along the jawline and neck.
Acne myths debunked
Acne is a reflection of diet and poor hygiene
False - Acne is largely considered to be a genetic disorder says dermatologist Dr Yiasemides. “While many studies have looked at lifestyle and diet, there is no study that has conclusively found a link between these and acne development.” Dr. Catherine Stone - The Face Place also warns that over washing can actually further aggravate the condition, stripping necessary oils which are then overcompensated for by the glands. “It has not been shown to improve acne and may actually exacerbate it by disrupting the protective layer of sebum and skin cells,” she cautions.
Breakouts can be attributed to stress
True – The stress hormone cortisol causes the skin to produce excess oils, often triggering a breakout or exasperating existing acne. “Research has shown that adult acne is more prevalent in women who work in high pressure, professional roles,” says Dr Yiasemides, who also observes a significant improvement in skin once the stress has defused. While occasional acute stress can bring on the odd breakout, it’s important to monitor continual stress as this can lead to a hormone imbalance that will likely show in your skin.
Smoking shows in your skin
True – Skin is very sensitive to nicotine. It increases sebum retention within the follicles, forming comedones (blackheads and whiteheads).
Acne gets worse when your period is due
True – If blemishes are popping up at the same time each month, it’s probably not a coincidence – “About 70 per cent of women complain of flare ups before their periods,” says Dr Yiasemides. They usually emerge seven to 10 days prior to your period due to a sudden drop in estrogen and progesterone levels.
Make-up can cause or fuel existing acne
True – While make-up won’t onset acne it can definitely further irritate it. “Sweat proof, smudge proof and long wearing make-up is best avoided as it can contain plastics, which block your skin and cause breakouts,” explains Caroline Parker - Dermalogica's head of education. “It’s best to use a mineral make-up that will not block or congest your skin,” she adds. Parker also strongly advises double cleansing – the process of cleansing your face twice in the evening in order to thoroughly rid your skin of daily build-up and ensure maximum absorption of serums and moisturisers.
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Toothpaste clears up pimples
False - While it may seem like a good idea as an emergency spot fix, toothpaste contains harsh ingredients like baking soda, alcohol, hydrogen peroxide and methanol. These dry out the skin and are likely to cause irritation and inflammation, particularly to acne sufferers who have sensitive skin.
Don’t moisturise it will make it worse
False - Skipping moisturiser will cause your skin to overcompensate with more oil. In fact, if you’re neglecting moisturisers completely it could be the reason for your breakouts. If your skin is on the oily side, look for an oil-free gel formula.
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Holistic approach
While studies have found no direct link between acne and lifestyle, experts recommend adopting a holistic approach to the skin disease. “There is some evidence that a low glycaemic index diet (low carbohydrates and sugars) and high fish intake has beneficial effects and reduces the incidence of acne,” says Caroline Parker. Elevated stress has been known to intensify acne further - try employing stress management techniques.
Topical treatment
While an emergency spot treatment certainly serves a purpose, it won’t work miracles. It’s imperative that you are regularly cleansing, exfoliating and moisturising alongside this, with products that cater to your blemish concerns and skin type. “Many fall into the habit of treating when the problem is visible when in fact that breakout started six weeks prior underneath the skin,” explains Keshan Gunasingh, Director of Beauty Research and Development for Johnson & Johnson.
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Light therapy refers to non-laser sources of light that help eradicate acne-causing bacteria at the source. It is a pain-free and relatively low-cost alternative with clinically proven results. “LED therapy works by gently penetrating the skin through blue or red light, and targeting acne-causing bacteria and reducing inflammation,” explains Yiasemides. Previously only available at dermatologists and skin centres, there are now take-home options available that combine both the benefits of the red and blue light.
High grade light therapy is available at About Face Ltd, and $POA
Medication
If over-the-counter treatment isn’t working, your doctor can prescribe oral medication, which can help manage the severity and frequency of acne outbreaks.
Laser
In many cases acne leaves behind pigmentation and scarring. Fortunately, laser treatment is widely available and has proven effective in significantly reducing the appearance of this. Users can expect an increased sensation of heat during the treatment says Marianna Glucina of About Face. “We apply a topical anaesthetic ointment before the procedure to minimise the discomfort you may experience and follow up with a cooling gel after the procedure to minimise any residual heat sensation,” she adds.
Try: About Face Clear + Brilliant starts from $399
