It’s a wrap! With the big four international autumn/winter 2014 Fashion Week shows coming to a close, beautydirectory takes a look at some of the top hair, make-up and nail looks coming out of the New York, London, Paris and Milan fashion weeks.
HAIR
ghd for Zimmermann - New York
At Zimmermann's Cloud Stompers show, hair director Sophie Roberts created a defiant yet innocent hair look to complement the bold feminine collection. I wanted to give a nod to both the Edwardian dandy and American rockabilly youthful boyish look but still create something that felt modern with the youthful spirit of a teddy girl. Using ghd eclipse and the ghd style range, we’ve created a sleek, textured, glossy look which captures the strength and attitude of the collection,” says Roberts.
Zimmermann.
Moroccanoil for 3.1 Phillip Lim - New York
For the 3.1 Phillip Lim Soleil show, Paul Hanlon for created a boldly 80's inspired hair look with a pronounced new wave nuance. We particularly referenced the sexy fashion spreads of photographers like Bruce Webber and Herb Ritz, and hair styles like those of Talisa Soto,” explains Hanlon. "More than generous amounts of Moroccanoil Light were applied mid-head and on the ends to create a sexier, deconstructed edge to the texture. Though there is a confident sexiness to the hair, we didn’t want it to feel too womanly, but more like the Phillip Lim girl, with a slight street appeal.”
3.1 Phillip Lim.
Schwarzkopf Professional - Betsey Johnson - New York
brand ambassador Michael Duenas created dishevelled retro looks for the Betsey Johnson show using the OSiS+ products. Think Bridgette Bardot meets modern day rock-and-roll - an iconic look turned edgy and loud,” reveals Duenas.
Betsey Johnson.
Toni & Guy Hair Meet Wardrobe - Vivienne Westwood Red Label - London
The Vivienne Westwood Red Label show saw global hair ambassador Mark Hampton create a look that was Marilyn Monroe come Indiana Jones. The hair was totally glamorous with an unruly edge. Fiercely independent, this woman has an adventurous style to compliment her enchanting spirit,” says Hampton. Hero products include the Toni&Guy Hair Meet Wardrobe Glamour Spritz and Shine Liquid Mousse.
Vivienne Westwood.
Wella Professionals - Missoni - Milan
The hair look at Missoni may have come across as romantic, light and ethereal at first glance, however, it was created with a strong, independent woman in mind. Wella Professionals global creative director Eugene Souleiman created a slightly askew topknot with beautiful soft wispy pieces that gave a halo effect on the models as they walked the runway. The inspiration behind the look came from a number of sources - from the optimistic soundtrack which was almost like a beautiful fanfare; to the strong, pioneering women of the early twentieth century. I was reminded of the women from the Bloomsbury Group and other intellectual circles that campaigned and supported what were then unconventional ideas and ideals. The type of woman who would do her hair on the move because she had a lot more important things to think about," reveals Souleiman. The star styling product for this look was Wella Professionals Ocean Spritz, Beach Texture Spray, It’s perfect for creating an ethereal, matte, voluminous texture,” says Souleiman.
Missoni.
Fudge - Chanel - Paris
After being sent a sketch by Karl Lagerfeld, hair director Sam McKnight created a stand-out unique take on the ponytail. "I exaggerated a simple pony and blew it up in proportion and detail, incorporating crimped extensions, braided hair in multi-coloured Chanel tweed rags, lace and pearls. I used Salt Spray, then Oribe Dry Texturizing Spray, to create a dry volume which was then crimped randomly, woven and braided with the Chanel fabrics, and fastened at the base with one of the woven braids," says McKnight.
Chanel.
muk - Ellery - Paris
Inspired by the artistic elements, drawing upon the concept of brush strokes, leading session stylist Stephanie Farouze worked her technical artistry on models at the Ellery show using products. The hair direction is forward, polished and artful. The unique placement around the temples and cheekbones frames the face and integrates the make-up look, creating a holistic beauty look this season," reveals designer Kym Ellery.
Ellery.
MAKE-UP
Estée Lauder - Derek Lam - New York
Leading a team of 15 make-up artists, creative make-up director Tom Pecheux created water-inspired beauty looks on more than 30 models at the Derek Lam show. Derek’s collection is strong, urban, ethnic-inspired with an emphasis on texture. The make-up look is strong, yet fluid, with pools of grey and green surrounding the eye. I was inspired by water, a lagoon, deep and cool,” says Pecheux.
Derek Lam.
M.A.C - Monique Lhuillier - New York
At Monique Lhuillier, make-up artist Val Garland matched the pops of crimson in the clothing collection with a bold red lip colour. The focal point of the make-up was the red lip, which looked more like a stain than full-on lipstick. Garland described the look as "sheer textures with veils of colour."
Monique Lhuillier.
Clinique - Parkchoonmoo - New York
The fall/winter 2014 Parkchoonmoo collection was an exercise in contrasts, and global colour artist Jenna Menard emphasised this message through her make-up creation. Menard began with a soft, matte foundation, juxtaposed with slight contouring under the cheek, and a glossy texture added to an otherwise bare eye. The deep plum lip was the main focus of the make-up look. To reinforce the message of contrasts, Menard kept the top lip matte, while adding a gloss to the bottom lip, creating more depth and dimension to the make-up overall.
Parkchoonmoo.
Bobbi Brown - Veronica Beard - New York
Veronica Beard’s Fall 2014 collection is inspired by the free-spirit of a young girl living in glam-rock harmony between Beverly Hills and Hollywood. Lead make-up artist used products by her namesake brand to create beauty looks that complement a Californian style - effortless but striking. To get the look, Brown created perfectly matte skin with a smokey golden brown eye and defined brow. The show included two make-up looks, with look one including nude lips and cheeks, while look two had a matte berry lip that made a statement against the models' fresh and flawless faces.
Veronica Beard.
Max Factor - Victoria Beckham - London
global creative design director Pat McGrath revealed a cool interpretation of modern day glamour at the Victoria Beckham show. McGrath created a contemporary nude beauty look that truly embodied the modern and sophisticated spirit of Beckham’s collection. Victoria wanted the girls to stay looking very natural, almost as themselves but to enhance their beauty with simple touches of make-up. This included important details such as adding extra luminosity to the skin and subtly lifting the lashes - it’s all about natural glamour that’s so modern and relevant to today,” says McGrath.
Victoria Beckham.
NAILS
essie - Emerson - New York
For the Emerson show, essie ridge filling base coat was applied to nails, with V-shaped pieces of painters-tape horizontally placed on the nails. One coat of lilacism was then applied to the bottom portion of the nail, with one coat of licorice to the top half of the nail. The tape was then peeled off, with a coat of good to go finishing off the look.
Emerson.
OPI - Degen - New York
At the Degen show, models wore short, squared tips featuring a blue sky/cloud nail design on all fingers except ring fingers, which were painted with a rainbow atop a chrome, glitter base. The designer selected this bold and colourful nail look to complement the collection’s bright knits and reflective fabrics. The sky nails were created using OPI's Can't Find My Czech-book (for the sky) and Alpine Snow (for the clouds). The Rainbow nails used Push and Shove layered with Desperately Seeking Sequins (base), Red Hot Rio, Toucan Do It If You Try, I Just Can't Cope-acabana, Amazon...Amazoff, Dating a Royal, and Next Stop...the Bikini Zone.
Degen.
CND - The Blonds - New York
unveiled 23 unique nail designs at The Blonds show. The Blond girl this season is a good girl gone bad”, with the clothing and nails expressing a modern twist on classic comic book villains such as Cat Woman, Poison Ivy and The Joker. Our team created looks for The Blonds that tie in beautifully with our 'Modern Folklore' trend prediction for Fall 2014, lush with embellished, bespoke and handmade craftsmanship. We don’t paint nails backstage at fashion week – we transform them into mini-masterpieces," reveals CND co-founder Jan Arnold. CND’s artists handcrafted the pointed nails and their dramatic embellishments with Retention+TM Liquid & Powder and BrisaTM Gel. Layers of high-shine colour were then applied using CND ShellacTM and VINYLUXTM. CND finalised the looks with unique embellishments such as jagged vintage jewels and chains.
The Blonds.
Sally Hansen - Stella McCartney - Paris
To complement the bold textures and sophisticated colour palette of Stella McCartney’s winter collection, the nail look featured clean, modern, understated shades of nude. Sally Hansen global colour ambassador Madeline Poole custom-blended colours of barely blush, nudes and sheers from the Complete Salon Manicure palette. We did a natural slightly-sheer nail using various combinations of four shades. Colours were layered differently for each model to best complement their skin tone," says Poole.
Stella McCartney.