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The last few years have seen hair oils bound their way into the spotlight. With more consumers embracing oils to treat their hair, companies are launching a plethora of products to support the segment. In 2011, hair oils accounted for 6 per cent of European treatment launches - with this figure rising to 18 per cent in the first quarter of 2014, according to research by Mintel.
It’s not only the sales of oils that are undergoing rapid change, the positioning of hair oils is also evolving. Mintel’s Hair Treatments and Colourants Report April 2014 reported that in Europe in 2011, 42 per cent of hair oil treatments were positioned as prestige products, but this fell to 17 per cent by 2013 even though the number of prestige oil launches increased. This was a result of many hair care companies bringing the trend into the mass hair care category by launching their own oil products.
Locally, we’re seeing that more and more women are adopting oils and incorporating these into their daily hair care regime. Similarly to the European market, many companies in Australia are making oils more accessible to women by launching their own oil products, using a variety of botanical sources and different key ingredients, into the mass and salon-inspired hair care category,” says Kao assistant brand manager Tate Howell.
But while we’re seeing an increase in the popularity of oils - serums continue to be a major selling point for hair companies. In fact, hair company John Frieda sells three million Frizz Ease serums globally each year, which equates to almost 70 per week. Seven serums per minute are sold around the world and in Australia alone, 10 per hour pass through the till.
Following news that even the king and creator of hair serums John Frieda was branching out into the oil category, beautydirectory decided to get to the bottom of whether these products are worth all the hype and how oil compares to serum. To do this, we sat down with Cassandra Boller from John Frieda’s R&D team and John Frieda Australia senior brand manager Claire Peake to find out what the main differences are between hair oils and serums, if both are needed in a good hair care regime, and why brands are adding oil to their line-up.
What are the key differences between a hair serum and oil?
Serums are generally more styling-based to create a specific look, such as well-defined curls, smooth and sleek, or super-straight. Man-made from science, they are effective for really solving frizz both within the hair structure and on the surface by smoothing the cuticle. They are transformational for changing your styling and making hair behave. Serums are control-based and add shine.
Oils are perceived to be more care-based, natural and nourishing for the hair. Oils are used to enhance but not actively style hair, offering general health benefits of shine and moisture. Oils are thought to actually absorb into the hair, making it healthier from the inside out, resulting in more shine and less frizz overall.
Should people be looking to include both an oil and serum into their hair care regime?
Women tend to lean towards one or the other – or alternate between the two – depending on the main benefit they are looking for, but it is certainly possible to use both. For example, if a woman currently uses three drops of serum for frizz-free end style, she could use two drops of serum combined with one drop of oil to blend care and style properties.
Oils seem to have really taken off in the last couple of years. Why is this?
Across all beauty categories, there has been a blurring between science and nature as the benefits of various ingredients have been investigated and better understood. Through research and development, it became apparent that certain oils contain fantastic natural properties that deliver great benefits to hair and skincare. Most beauty and hair care manufacturers have recognised this and now incorporate oils into relevant products to achieve desired benefits.
John Frieda has always done hair serums. Why did the brand decide to branch into oil?
was formulated in response to the needs and desires of our target consumer to give her a choice of the best product format to meet her specific needs. As the leaders in frizz elimination, it is important for the Frizz Ease brand to offer all product formats that our consumer needs to give her the best prescriptive and tailored solution to her personal frizz concern.
Is the launch of an oil set to have any impact on the sales of John Frieda’s serums?
The launch of Frizz Ease Oil Elixir should grow brand sales overall as we are offering even more relevant product choices to target consumers. Frizz Ease Serums have also had a make-over this year, with new innovative and scientific packaging. This should help increase serum sales at the same time as generating new sales from oil.
How does the John Frieda oil compare to other hair oils on the market?
The unique Frizz Ease Oil Elixir formulation combines argan oil with three different proprietary silicones, and was developed to add softness, smoothing and shine to the hair. All benefits that a frizz-prone consumer loves!